We’ve been enjoying life in Andalusia for the last six weeks.
My spouse and I have been financially independent for nearly 15 years and now we’re in our early 50s. When I retired from the military in 2002, our daughter was nine years old and we spent much of the next decade on parenting. We enjoyed the usual family activities and vacations around the public school calendar, but our longest trip in those years was the summer college tour. During her college time we still planned our travel around her campus events and holiday breaks.
College graduation was May 2014, and now we’re truly empty nesters. We’re living our lives on our own schedule again!
Today our daughter’s paying back her Navy ROTC scholarship with five years of active duty, and she’s seeing the world. She’s assigned to a destroyer that’s one of four ships based in Rota, Spain. Last December (after schools and a Mediterranean deployment) she returned to Rota to pick up her car, rent an apartment, and unpack her household goods. As soon as she finished the heavy lifting, we parents planned our vacation.
Spain: again
The best part about visiting Spain is sentimental. In 1983 my spouse (then girlfriend) was stationed at Rota’s Navy weather center, and I used to visit her when I was between submarine patrols. We roamed the entire Iberian peninsula on the cheap. We established many of our frugal spending habits during those months, and our house is filled with Spanish furniture and other souvenirs of that tour. We’ve really anticipated seeing the changes of the last 30 years.
My spouse and I spent more of our military careers outside the continental U.S. than in it, and we’re big believers in overseas duty. However, this post is not about “orders to Rota”. (If you have more questions about Rota duty then contact me through the blog or e-mail me. You can also join the Facebook group “Rota Naval Community Q&A” and ask your questions there.) I’ll just say that Rota is an outstanding career opportunity, and a great place for military families to have an incredible experience in a friendly culture.
Instead, let’s talk about long-term vacations: Spain allows visitors to stay up to 90 days without a visa. There are also plenty of military Space A flights from the U.S. to Europe, especially the charter plane from Norfolk. Our daughter had a very short leave, so we decided to fly to Rota via American Airlines and return to Hawaii on Space-A. The easiest and quickest commercial route goes through Madrid to Jerez de la Frontera. It’s also possible to fly through Sevilla or to take trains from those cities through Jerez to El Puerto de Santa Maria.
The American military has been a guest on the Spanish naval base for over 50 years. Relations are good but access is tightly controlled by the status of forces agreement. The easiest way to get on base is to land on the runway in a Space A flight, of course, but the second-easiest way is to show your passport and a military ID at the security gate for a one-day pass. Then you can head to the air terminal to sign up for 60 days on the Space A waiting list. The flights back to the U.S. seem to have plenty of Space A seats– and there’s even an occasional aircraft manifested to Oahu! However, we really only need to leave Spain before our 90 days expire, and we don’t have any other deadlines. We can get back to Oahu (eventually) from anywhere by either Space A or commercial airline.
Living local
We came to Spain to live like locals, so we’re spending our time off the base. Rota is surrounded by resort communities that entertain large beach crowds in the summer, but the winter weather has lows in the 30s and highs in the low 60s. Many of the local shops are on off-season hours, and at least one large grocery store seems to be closed for February.
Our daughter rents a home in a local neighborhood that’s very walkable, with shops and parks every few blocks among the houses and apartments. My spouse and I take long strolls almost every day, perhaps lounging at a local coffee shop or tapas bar. We’ll usually stop by a grocery store on the walk home to stock up on staples or fresh fruit & vegetables. My Spanglish is very limited but I can understand a conversation in context and I can handle some Q&A. If the discussion turns to technical terms or off-topic questions then I’m quickly lost. However, most of the locals speak at least as much English as my Spanish and they’re happy that you’re trying to learn their culture.
The cost of eating around Rota (especially in winter) is very attractive compared to Hawaii. American cereal brands in the SuperSol and Dia grocery stores cost less than the same cereal in the Schofield Barracks commissary on Oahu. Fresh whole fish and squid are on ice in both stores, and those critters were swimming in the ocean last night. The towns are also surrounded by thousands of acres of agriculture– Spain is one of the world’s largest producers of olive oil, and local fresh fruit & veggies are also very cheap. (We paid one euro for a two-kilo bag of oranges. In January.) I’m happily snorkeling my way through a Mediterranean diet and walking it off in picturesque surroundings.
Rental real estate.
Housing is also very affordable, due to an overbuilt real estate market and the dollar’s rising strength. Our daughter’s rental home is classic Andalusian architecture with concrete block, stucco, terra-cotta tile floors, and clay half-pipe roof tiles. It’s about 15 years old with a gated parking spot and eight-foot walls around the small yard.
The home is poorly insulated, but heat is only needed for a few months each year. (It’s heated by high-efficiency radiators from a natural gas tankless water heater, and we’re dressing warmly.) The appliances and the plumbing fixtures are modern and, in some cases, better designed than American ones. The kitchen is totally Ikea cabinets. The property was vacant for over a year before our daughter arrived, so the landlord agreed to the military housing allowance and has been generous with the extras. Our daughter is living a frugal lifestyle (when she’s even home) so she’s banking most of the utilities allowance and almost all of the COLA. She’s well on her way to her own financial independence, but that’s a whole ‘nother blog post.
However, we’re not spending much time lounging around the lanai patio sipping Kona espressos. During our first weekend we drove all over the base to check out the changes over the last 30 years. There’s a lot of new construction (both Spanish and American militarie), and four Navy destroyers will raise the American population to over 2500. Then we left the base and drove all over town: Rota has at least tripled in size, although we were able to find my spouse’s old rental apartment (looking almost exactly as it did in 1983). Some of the 1980s restaurants are still in business and a few have relocated or shut down. Many of the local stores have been replaced by big-box retailers and even a few shopping malls. The Jerez branch of Bricor feels just like Home Depot… with everything on sale.
Granada
The Alhambra at Granada.
As soon as we recovered from our jet lag (consecutive redeye flights) we headed to Granada. Spain’s local train system runs efficiently at 160 kph and it seems to be a very affordable way to see the country. We bought our Alhambra tickets online and reserved a 2BR apartment through Booking.com.
At the summer peak season these logistics would take weeks of advance planning, but in January there are no crowds– although (for this Hawaii guy) it’s awfully darn cold. We spent two separate days in the Alhambra complex and a third day roaming the rest of Granada. Everything is uphill (both ways!), but the town is small and we probably only walked five miles each day.
There are several international universities and a sizeable “hippie” community so the people-watching is also excellent. For an in-depth review of everything that Granada has to offer, I’d recommend Rick Steves’ tour guide plus Jed’s posts at Bucking-The-Trend.com. He and his spouse have lived there for nearly a year on a visa (with their twin 9-year-old boys in a Spanish public school) and I doubt they’re ready to return to America yet.
Jerez de la Frontera
Sherry in the barrels at the bodega.
Jerez plaza for tapas– in January.
After returning from Granada we spent a day in Jerez. The sherry and brandy industries started here in the 1820s, and the Gonzalez family’s fifth generation is still running the business known as Tio Pepe. (Yes, there is a tasting room with tapas, but you have to buy tickets for the tour.) I learned more about sherry and brandy in our two hours with the tour guide than I ever discovered during more than two decades of my military-sponsored “research”. The town is also full of historic buildings and a lovely central plaza– including tapas bars.
Cadiz
Cathedral in Cadiz old town.
The following week we spent a day in Cadiz. We took a small catamaran ferry from the pier at Puerto de Santa Maria and disembarked at the Cadiz harbor. The town has marked out four separate walking routes with painted lines on the sidewalks, so we spent our first day seeing the cathedrals and monuments. Cadiz was founded over two thousand years ago and there’s lots of both. We’ll be back during the coming weeks to finish the other three routes and see how their new harbor bridge is doing.
Cordoba
The bridge to the Mezquita in Cordoba.
In early February we took a day trip to Cordoba. It’s the site of the Mezquita mosque, which is just one of at least three separate religious buildings erected on that site during the last 1400 years. (At this point I’m wondering where the heck these topics were covered during my 1970s high-school “Western Civilization” history classes, but my daughter says they weren’t part of her 2008 AP World History classes either. Spanish mosques and cathedrals have reminded me that today’s strife among religious extremists is just the latest chapter in a very old book.) After a couple of hours in the Mezquita we moved on to the town’s Jewish quarter and then finished at the Roman fort by the bridge. There’s too much to see in Cordoba in just one day, so we’ll return next month.
Ronda
The bullring at Ronda.
What else will we do all day? We spent Valentine’s Day in Ronda, one of the famous “pueblo blancos” of Andalusia. By the time you read this we’ll also have visited an olive bottler for a tour, and on another day we’re taking a quick look at Gibraltar. (Does that reset our 90-day calendar in Spain? Hmmm.) Later in March, we’ll go back to Vejer de la Frontera, where in 1984 I observed the running of the bulls. (The bulls won.)
We still need to explore Sevilla along with return visits to Granada, Cordoba, and Cadiz. (The Alhambra and the Mezquita are just too big to see in one trip.) Madrid, Barcelona, and Morocco are possibilities. However, there’s plenty to browse in Puerto de Santa Maria and Rota by walking or after a short taxi ride. We’re here for slow travel, not to race around the country on a photo scavenger hunt. We’ll probably head home in April, but there are no deadlines.
At home
Aloha in Andalusia…
Speaking of home, we’ve spent many hours in our daughter’s place hanging shelves & pictures on the walls and making other minor improvements. When she has time then I’m sure we’ll help her organize a few closets, finish unpacking the household goods, and catch up on her car maintenance. If it gets warm enough then I’ll rent surfing gear (including a 3mm wetsuit!) and explore the local standup paddleboard options. We’ll enjoy lots of long walks and café con leche at the local watering holes. There’ll also be time for reflection, spouse talks, reading, and writing.
We’ll leave Spain before the summer crowds appear, but I think we’ll have to see what Andalusia looks like in October-December, too.
Related articles:
Lifestyles In Retirement: Empty Nester
Lifestyles In Retirement: Habits And Getting Things Done
Lifestyles In Retirement: Long-Term Travel
Military Financial Independence 
My best 4 years in the Navy was at NCS and NS Rota 86-90. Traveled man times to Moron AFB, outside of Seville, lived in Cadiz and took the little ferry to Puerto. Those were the days. 2 kids born at the old Naval Hospital. I paid for it though with a later tour at 29 Palms.
The article does mention the author has a degree of financial independence. I have often wondered how one interprets that for themselves. I think personal financial independence is measured in degrees or levels of financial autonomy. With greater levels of financial freedom as one progresses.
-freedom from living paycheck to paycheck
-freedom from working to support a lifestyle-that becomes self generating
-freedom from matters of concern for insurance issues/health and life.
-Finally I think freedom to self-insure, be it long term care or personal indemnity. At that point, I think one is able to say that their life time of labors and sacrifice in a career or occupation has brought what all really want and desire a the end, a sense of accomplishment and a sense of peace of mind. That it was all worth it.
Thanks, Peter! Good points on financial freedom.
Fun stuff! I think you’ve done more spanish sightseeing in the last six weeks then I have in the last 9 months of living in Rota (although I try to leave spain every chance I get to travel Europe). I am trying to rack my brain to think if I have met your daughter but I don’t know a lot of the JOs on the ships since they are always in and out of port. I hope you enjoy the rest of your stay and this great weather we have been having!
Thanks, J9! I’m sorry to say that we’ve also seen more of Andalusia in the last six weeks than my spouse saw during her entire two-year tour in the 1980s. We’re really enjoying the changes.
Carol is on the USS ROSS. You’re right about “in and out of port”– the best part about being forward deployed, and perhaps also the worst part. She’ll keep up that routine for another 14 months.
By the way, last week I donated two copies of “The Military Guide” to the base library. The librarian says she’ll have them cataloged and on the shelves in a couple of weeks. This week I’m going to give copies of the book and the pocket guide to the family service center and the Navy-Marine Corps Relief Society.
Sounds like a second Honeymoon to me…because Mrs NFO and I went to Andalusia for a week after we got married 15 years ago!
I have orders to Germany this summer. The job will take me to retirement. Maybe not the best way to retire if one is looking for a bridge career, but I’ll be in no rush to find a job when the USN shows me the door. The orders were simply too good to pass up. I’m looking at it like an extended vacation on Uncle Sam’s nickel, and our kids are now old enough so that they’ll each remember their time living overseas.
32 years ago when my spouse (then GF) was ordered to Rota, I asked for a Holy Loch submarine so that it’d be easier to visit her between patrols. That tactic seemed to pay off…
Congratulations on Germany! I think it’s a great way to demonstrate your multinational skills for a bridge career, and you should contact Deserat about that! If the euro continues its current trend, you’ll also accelerate your financial independence.
Found your site through MMM forum and I was devouring some articles Yesterday. This morning I woke up and your site was still opened so I found this post too.
I am from Almeria (Andalusia) but living in UK for 4 years and this makes me kind of homesick :).
I am really happy you enjoyed your trip and I will like to invite you to visit my city next time (it is close to Granada).
Thanks for your post and thanks for your entire site.
BR, Miguel
Thanks, Miguel, I appreciate why you feel homesick!
Almeria’s on our list for this fall. And next time you’re in Granada, I highly recommend contacting Jed at Bucking-The-Trend.com for a beverage at the neighborhood bar.
Excellent information. Just one point to add.
Reserve “gray area” retirees (Pink DD Form 2 ID) are not allowed on NS Rota. I found this out recently.
Great point, Chico, thanks!
We’ve seen the pendulum swing both ways over the last 30 years. Even in gray area under today’s rules as of Sep 2016, you could be escorted on the base by a sponsor or during one of the few annual holidays when the base is open to all ID card holders.
I agree that NS Rota makes it a lot harder than it should be, but the Status Of Forces Agreement was written to “encourage” retirees to spend their money on the local Spanish economy instead of on the base.
Lived in Rota from 86-90, and am now wanting to permanently live there (hubby is retired). Any suggestions/heads-up for retirees wanting to stay? I’ve heard there’s no access to the Exchange or Commissary, but it seems the hospital is still okay… Is there open access to the base in general?
Thanks, GetteVon, great question!
Base access is limited by the Status Of Forces Agreement, and U.S. military retirees are able to get a 24-hour pass. Some days are open to the local community for holidays or special events.
In general, retirees are discouraged from using the base. You have access to the personnel support detachment for ID cards (if necessary) and the passenger terminal (Space A flights). There may also be space-available room in the base lodge, but I don’t know how long you’d be able to stay there. You can rent recreational gear from the MWR center and buy tours or event tickets at the ITT office. You can buy snacks and meals at the various restaurants and fast-food franchises. You might be able to use base services like the legal office, the library, and their computer network.
I don’t know about hospital or dental access– we never looked into that. The only shopping is limited to the Mini-Mart and other small stores at the exchange. You can’t buy gas at the gas station, although you can buy tools & parts. You aren’t even able to enter the commissary without an active-duty sponsor or escort.
Frankly, we weren’t looking for much support from the base. We spent far more time exploring Rota and the rest of Andalusia, and you may decide to do the same.
If you’re living in Spain on a visa or a residency permit then you may have more base access than our 90-day Schengen default.
If you want to dig into the details of the policies and rules, I recommend joining the Facebook group “Rota Naval Community Q&A” (https://www.facebook.com/groups/RotaNavalCommunity/). You’ll be able to find copies of the SOFA document and find more people to contact for additional info. The Rota area does have a large American expatriate community of U.S. military veterans & families, and some of them may be members of that FB group.
Doug’s reply is spot on.
Other than an emergency, I would not rely on the base hospital/dental. Yes, there can be space available for the dental or hospital.
Retirees and their family members cannot use the Navy Exchange or Commissary. But, can use MiniMart located in same building complex as NE and Commissary. Which is well stocked.
((Go to Italy and can use all.))
To be honest, I don’t miss the NEX or commissary. I find better quality fruits, veggies and other items on the economy. In most cases cheaper.
Take a look in the small supermercados in Spain. Or, to have it all, check out the larger shopping centers. Stop by El Corte Ingles in Seville. Eat lunch on top floor with a great view of Seville.
Base is open in general. Retirees not employed on base must get a daily pass. Not a big deal.
Retirees can use all MWR facilities on base. Galley on Sundays and holidays. Used to be 7 days a week.
Retirees should remember what is true for today regarding Rota NS may not be so tomorrow.
Things can change. And, they have.
Waiting to see what happens with Space-A once things relax some from this COVID mess.
IMHO, I think people will be flying commercial in/out of Spain long before Space-A kicks in again.
Suggest viewing page: Pepperd.com. for space-A info.
and using Rob’s Take-a-Hop app.
Wondering if retiring in Spain is a better choice than living in Hawaii?
Thanks, Kevin, there are no losers between those choices!
Spain is certainly a low cost-of-living area. The surf in Cadiz and El Palmar was… cold. I had to wear a full wetsuit, and I wouldn’t have surfed as much as I can in Hawaii. But that’s been a challenge everywhere we travel.
Thanks Doug, appreciate your insight of Spain. I am looking forward to visiting, exploring and experiencing the culture over there. Hopefully travel becomes open again soon, with Space A being an option. However, I’ve been spoiled with the weather here on island; I might have to make some adjustments in my clothing attire.
I’ve really missed Space A.
And you’re right, the “worst” part of our travel is the colder climates. All things considered, they’ve been worth the shivering.
Hi, do you know if the Spanish government taxes US Military VA benefits if they become Spanish residents? I’ve been looking for answers for this question and no one seems to know. If you or any of your readers happen to know I’d greatly appreciated you could share it.
Thanks
Tony, I’m not familiar with the Spanish law behind compensation from the U.S. military disability system.
I can think of two Facebook groups where the members might include people in that situation. The first one is the Rota Naval Community Q&A Facebook group. Many of those members are stationed in Rota and will know military U.S. veterans in the area who may have Spanish residency or citizenship through marriage. They might even be able to refer you to a lawyer or financial advisor who’s familiar with the Spanish tax code.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/RotaNavalCommunity/
The second Facebook group is ChooseFI expats. They might have someone who’s been through that situation in Spain, or they might know of a website with more references. They answer a lot of questions about the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion Act, and someone might know how VA disability compensation is treated under U.S. law as well as Spanish law.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/ChooseFIExpats
Retired military after doing 30 years active duty.
Been back to Rota many times over the years. Now living in Seville.
Before Covid, hopped into/out of Rota NS about once or twice a year.
How far back do I remember Rota NS? When the base was being built!
Old timer here.. Arrived at Rota NS in 1956! We lived in Seville for first year. Rota was tiny. Few streets and that was it.
Moved on base when housing opened.
Town of Rota, Rota NS, Seville, and for that matter, all of Spain has changed.
I graduated from DGF HS c/o 1964.
After many years as asst base fire chief and then many more year as fire chief, dad finally came back to the states. Back in the early days civilian employees stayed for years and years at Rota. And stayed more years.
So much has changed. American flag used to fly at the gates. Marine guards on the gates. Train used to run through base. What is now the Rota bus station used to be the train station.
First base lodging was former Spanish civilian hotel. Was located on hill above what is now the power plant. There was a small bridge from road crossing over the train track to the hotel. Torn down years ago.
Today, only very few things look the same. Except, the base drive in theater, the indoor theater (soon to be torn down), the base chapel.
Americans had a beach at Punta Condor. There was nothing outside the town limits. Could ride train to Sanlucar.
I remember when the murals were painted on the walls in the Galley. Stil there. Food in the Galley has gone way down. Guess we all heard that one before.
Hotel Duque was a barracks for Guardia Civil. Now nice hotel on the beach.
Speaking of hotels in Rota, Hotel La Parrita has to be one of the cleanest hotels — ever.
Walking distance to gate. I have walked to terminal from La Parrita for flight out.
Guess could go on and on.
Anyone out there remember Rota NS from the 50s, 60s …. leave a comment please.
Ok, last comment — for now…
A excellent page for Seville, and Spain in general, is exploreseville.com.
Has it all! Take a look around. Has it all!
For those interested in walking Camino de Santiago (done four of them myself — life changing event)
I suggest:
caminodesantiago.me.
And, viewing movie The Way.
Thanks for your comments, Marty!